## 12V Fridge

The Centennial 12V fridge stands out for campervan and RV conversions due to its efficient power usage, mobile durability, and compatibility with off-grid electrical systems. Below is a comprehensive buying guide for this type of appliance:

What Makes This Part Ideal for Campervan Conversions
- Runs on 12V DC, allowing direct connection to most campervan battery systems—ideal for off-grid and solar setups[2][1].
- Built for compact spaces, fitting seamlessly into custom campervan cabinetry[1].
- Engineered for travel durability, with vibration dampening and secure travel locks to withstand movement on the road[1][2].
- Efficient power usage conserves battery, crucial for extended trips without shore power[1].

Key Features and Benefits
- Full fridge and freezer compartments—store perishable essentials and frozen foods for longer trips[2][1].
- Adjustable shelves and spacious interiors (commonly 10 cu ft) maximize food storage, outperforming traditional absorption fridges of similar size[1][2].
- Frost-free operation reduces maintenance and hassle when dry camping[2].
- Quiet compressors promote a peaceful environment[1].
- No propane needed—operation is safer and simpler in fully electric van builds[2].
- Travel locks and secure seals prevent spills and keep doors shut while driving[1].
- Easy temperature control, often digitally adjustable, for precise cooling needs[2].

What to Look for When Buying
- Size and capacity to fit your available space and expected food storage needs.
- Amperage draw at operating temperature (look for units around 1A while running)[2].
- Compatibility with your battery/solar setup. Units needing under 7A at startup are ideal for small to mid-size campervans[2].
- Durability—choose models with vibration resistance and robust internal fixtures.
- User-friendly installation (right- or left-side door reversibility, adjustable legs, mounting options)[2].
- Clear warranty and technical support availability.

Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Overlooking power draw—choose appliances that match your battery and solar capacity. Over-sized or inefficient fridges can deplete off-grid power faster than you expect.
- Ignoring fitment—verify both exterior and interior dimensions to ensure the fridge will fit through the doorway and into your cabinetry[2].
- Skipping ventilation space—lack of clearance can lead to overheating or reduced cooling performance[2].
- Cutting corners on mounting—secure installation is critical for safe travel; use proper brackets even if not included.

Best Use Cases
- Weekend warriors benefit from rapid cooling, low power draw, and minimal maintenance—no need to pre-cool with shore power or ice[1][2].
- Full-time vanlifers/RVers gain from large storage, energy efficiency, and reliability for consistent daily use and off-grid living[1][2].

Budget Considerations and Value Analysis
- 12V compressor fridges cost more upfront than absorption (3-way) models, but offer clear lifetime value via lower energy consumption, better cooling, and reduced maintenance[1][2].
- Expect to pay a premium for larger capacities, frost-free operation, and durable construction.
- Energy savings and ability to go off-grid longer with moderate battery setups can offset the initial investment; consider this in your total campervan build budget.

A Centennial-style 12V fridge is a top choice for anyone wanting maximum food storage, true off-grid capability, and minimal power hassle on the road. Carefully assess your campervan's needs and match features accordingly for the best results.

A 12V fridge is widely favored for campervan or RV use due to its strong balance of energy efficiency, cooling performance, and versatility, especially for off-grid and battery-powered setups[1][2]. Here is a detailed comparison with similar products in the same category:

Alternatives to the 12V Compressor Fridge

Dometic CFX3 by Dometic
- Pros: Extremely energy-efficient (as low as 0.68-1A per hour); rapid cooling (<30 minutes to 4°C); robust build quality; precise digital temperature control[1][2].
- Cons: High up-front cost ($800–$1,100+ depending on size)[2].
- Price: $800–$1,100

Dometic RM8400 (3-Way Absorption Fridge)
- Pros: Can run on propane (gas), 12V, or 120V; useful where electricity is limited; very quiet operation[1].
- Cons: Poor efficiency on 12V (10-15A continuous); much slower cooling (4-6 hours to reach safe temp); less precise temperature control; struggles in warm climates[1].
- Price: $1,000–$1,200

BougeRV 53 Quart Compressor Fridge
- Pros: Good energy efficiency (~2A draw); affordable compared to premier brands; reliable performance; cools to 5°C in about 2 hours[1].
- Cons: Slower cooling than top-tier models; fewer advanced features[1].
- Price: $350–$400

Coleman Powerchill Thermoelectric Coolbox
- Pros: Low cost; lightweight and portable[1][2].
- Cons: Poor energy efficiency (4-5A continuous); only cools up to 20°C below ambient; not suitable for extended or hot-weather van life[1][2].
- Price: $100–$150

Price Range Comparison

• 12V Compressor Fridges: $350–$1,100 (depending on brand, features, and size)
• 3-Way Absorption Fridges: $1,000–$1,200
• Thermoelectric Coolboxes: $100–$150

When to Choose Each Product

• 12V Compressor Fridge: Choose if you prioritize energy efficiency, need quick, reliable cooling, and expect to run off solar/battery for extended periods (ideal for modern van life)[1][2].
• 3-Way Absorption Fridge: Useful for off-grid use with unlimited propane, or in situations where running solely on gas is advantageous. Poor for battery-only setups or hot climates[1].
• Thermoelectric Coolbox: Choose for short trips, mild climates, or strictly budget-limited scenarios. Not recommended for actual "fridge" use in van life[1][2].

Performance Differences for Van Life

| Feature | 12V Compressor | 3-Way Absorption | Thermoelectric |
|---------------------------|----------------------|------------------------|------------------------|
| Energy Use (per day) | 40–70Ah[1] | 120–300Ah (on 12V)[1] | 96–120Ah[1] |
| Cooling Speed | 0.5–2 hours[1] | 4–6 hours[1] | Very slow |
| Temp. Control Precision | High[1][2] | Low[1] | Poor |
| Off-Grid Suitability | Excellent[1][2] | Good (on gas)[1] | Poor[1][2] |
| Cost | Moderate–High | High | Low |

Summary

A 12V compressor fridge offers the best mix of energy efficiency, cooling speed, and suitability for off-grid, solar, and battery-based van setups[1][2]. Absorption fridges are best for those relying heavily on LPG, while thermoelectric coolboxes are only viable for short, budget trips[1][2]. For most van lifers, the 12V option is the clear winner on price-to-performance.

Tools Required
- Drill and drill bits
- Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
- Wire stripper and crimping tool
- Multimeter
- Electrical tape and heat shrink tubing
- M5 screws or other mounting hardware
- Cable ties
- 12-gauge wire (or size according to your fridge manual)
- Ventilation panels or grilles

Prerequisites
- Confirm your campervan’s electrical system is in place with a suitable leisure battery and fuse block or distribution board[3][4].
- Know basic wiring skills: cutting, stripping, and crimping wires[3].
- Choose the installation location: must be level, easily accessible, and have at least 1–2 inches of clearance on the sides and back for ventilation[1][2][4].
- Check the fridge’s power requirement and wire gauge; calculate cable size to avoid voltage drop, particularly for longer runs[4].

Step-by-Step Instructions
1. Position the Fridge
- Choose a stable, level surface. Ensure adequate ventilation (add grilles if in a cabinet)[1][2][4].
- Elevate slightly (e.g., with plywood) to allow airflow underneath if needed[2].

1. Secure the Fridge
   - Locate and use the manufacturer’s mounting points with M5 screws or equivalent[2].
   - Add side supports or stabilizing brackets to prevent movement while driving[1][2].

2. Route and Prepare Wiring
   - Drill a small access hole for wiring from the fridge to the fuse block or distribution panel[2].
   - Cut, strip, and crimp wire extensions if the stock wiring is too short[2][3].
   - Use at least 12-gauge wire or as recommended for your fridge and cable length to reduce voltage drop[2][4].

3. Connect the Electrical System
   - Connect the fridge’s positive (red) and negative (black) leads to your fuse block or battery—install an isolation switch if possible for easy power cut-off[3][4].
   - Use an appropriate fuse (commonly 15A, but check your fridge manual)[2][3].
   - Seal connections with heat shrink tubing and tape for safety[2].

4. Test the System
   - Use a multimeter to confirm correct voltage at the fridge connection before turning it on[1][3].
   - Turn on the fridge and let it run—check for stable operation and monitor for voltage drop[4].

Common Mistakes
- Inadequate ventilation—leads to overheating; always check clearance requirements[1][2][4].
- Using undersized wiring—causes voltage drop; refer to your fridge’s manual for wire gauge[4].
- Poor or loose connections—risk of failure or fire; always crimp and insulate properly[3][4].
- Skipping an isolator switch—makes it harder to turn off the fridge and may drain your battery[4].

Pro Tips
- Label all wiring for future troubleshooting.
- Add high and low ventilation grilles if installing in custom cabinetry for optimal airflow[4].
- Regularly check mounting hardware for tightness, especially after bumpy rides.
- If in doubt, consult your fridge manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Time Estimate
- 2–3 hours for those comfortable with van electrical work; add another hour if building new cabinetry or running longer power lines[1][3].