by ** Pricing, availability, and specifications were current as of October 2025, but may fluctuate based on dealer inventory and supply chain status. Always consult manufacturer or dealer links for the most up-to-date details.
Product Name: Espar Airtronic AS3D2L 12V Heater Full Kit (Diesel) with Sprinter Install Kit Amazon: Not found (typically unavailable or sold by resellers at variable pricing) Heat Output: 7,500 BTU (2.2 kW) Voltage: 12V DC Fuel: Diesel Power Consumption: 4–27W (startup: 30A for 1–2 mins) Fuel Consumption: 0.04–0.07 gal/h (0.14–0.26 l/h) Dimensions: 12.2" x 4.8" x 4.5" Max Altitude: up to 13,120 ft (4,000 m) Weight: 5.5 lbs (2.5 kg)[2][4] Description: The Espar Airtronic AS3D2L provides reliable dieselpowered heating for vans, with an efficient heater unit and all components needed for integration into a Sprinter’s auxiliary fuel tap. Its automated altitude adjustment, energy efficiency, and compact size make it a popular choice for allweather comfort in campervans[2][3][4]. ### Espar Heater Product Name: Espar AM3D4L RV VAN Diesel Heater Kit Max Power: 4 kW (13,650 BTU) Voltage: 12V DC Altitude Function: Up to 18,000 ft (5,500 m) Fuel: Diesel Weight: ~9 lbs (unpacked)[1] Description: The Espar AM3D4L is a highoutput, professionalgrade diesel air heater designed for vans and RVs operating in extreme altitude and cold conditions. Its integrated kit includes advanced controls, fuel tap hardware, and robust ducting suited for extended offgrid use in large or heavily insulated conversion vans[1]. ### Webasto Heater Product Name: Webasto Air Top 2000 STC Diesel Heater Kit Heat Output: 7,000 BTU (2.0 kW) Voltage: 12V DC Fuel: Diesel Power Consumption: < 22W (max) Fuel Consumption: 0.05–0.06 gal/h (0.19–0.23 l/h) Weight: ~6 lbs (main unit) Max Operating Altitude: Up to 7,000 ft (w/ standard kit; highaltitude kits available) Description: The Webasto Air Top 2000 STC is a compact, quiet, and efficient diesel air heater, widely used in campervan conversions for reliable heat in all climates. Its electronic controls, relatively low power draw, and robust construction make it a favorite among Sprinter, Transit, and ProMaster owners. ### Propane Heater Product Name: Suburban NT16SEQ Ducted RV Furnace Output: 16,000 BTU Fuel: Propane (LPG) Voltage: 12V DC blower ignition/controller Weight: 30 lbs Ducted Distribution, Compact Profile, Reliable in RVs and vans Description: ### Electric Heater Product Name: Caframo True North 9206CABBX Electric Heater Power: 750W/1500W (2 settings) Voltage: 120V AC Output: ~5,100 BTU (on high) Fan forced, tipover and overheat protection Description: The Caframo True North 9206CABBX is a portable electric heater designed for RV or van life where shore power or large inverters are available. Compact and safe, it is a practical backup for mild climates or supplement to other heating systems.
Van Compatibility: Universal (any van/RV with standard 120V AC power)
The diesel heater is a leading choice for campervan and RV conversions, delivering reliable warmth, efficient operation, and flexibility, especially for off-grid adventures[1][2][3].
In summary: Choose a diesel heater for safe, efficient, and year-round warmth, tailoring type and features to your van size and travel style. Prioritize safety, fuel integration, noise level, and proper installation to maximize comfort and heater lifespan.
Diesel heaters are a top choice for campervans and RVs due to their efficiency, performance in cold climates, and compatibility with vehicle fuel systems[2][3][4]. Comparable alternatives in the same category include:
1. Propane Forced Air Heater by Suburban
- Pros: Widely available fuel, straightforward installation, quiet operation, reliable in moderate climates[4].
- Cons: Less efficient at high altitude, bulkier fuel tanks, limited in extreme cold, combustion byproducts require careful ventilation[4].
- Price: $600–$1,200 (unit only; installation extra)[4].
- Best for: Weekend campers and those traveling in less extreme climates where propane refills are easy to access.
2. Hydronic Heater by Eberspaecher or AquaHot
- Pros: Provides both hot air and hot water, can be used for heated floors, highest heat output, efficient at high altitude[1].
- Cons: Expensive system, complex installation, large footprint required, overkill for small vans.
- Price: $4,000–$6,000[1].
- Best for: Full-time travelers or luxury RV users needing integrated hot water and floor heating.
3. Electric Heater (Any reputable brand)
- Pros: Simple install, safe (no combustion), zero emissions inside, silent operation[3].
- Cons: Requires substantial battery or shore power, high energy consumption unsuitable for off-grid or solar setups, limited effectiveness in poorly insulated vans.
- Price: $50–$300 (unit only)[3].
- Best for: Occasional use with access to grid power or robust solar arrays; not ideal for winter or sustained off-grid heating.
4. Wood Stove by Cubic Mini
- Pros: Off-grid, produces dry heat, ambiance, can use locally sourced wood.
- Cons: Requires chimney install, space-consuming, not allowed in all campgrounds, manual operation, more safety risk.
- Price: $300–$1,000 (plus install)[2].
- Best for: Static camper setups, those wanting a sustainable, fuel-independent solution in appropriate climates.
Choose a diesel heater when:
- You want consistent, robust heating in any climate.
- Your travel is extensive or remote, making fuel availability and efficiency paramount.
- You need a solution optimized for energy and cost over months of use[2][3][4].
Tools Required
- Electric drill and drill bits (including hole saw and metal bits)
- Screwdriver set
- Wrenches/spanners
- Measuring tape and marker
- Stanley knife or hose cutter
- Pliers
- Crimping tool (for wiring)
- Sealant (high temperature recommended)
- Safety glasses and gloves[1][3]
Prerequisites
- Choose and clear a flat, accessible location for the heater (usually under a seat or in a storage compartment)[1].
- Disconnect the van’s battery before electrical work.
- Check for enough space underneath the van for the exhaust and air intake.
- Gather all parts (heater kit, mounting plate, wiring loom, controller, ducting, fuel line, inline filter, exhaust pipe, and clamps)[2][3].
- Obtain a carbon monoxide alarm for safety[3].
Step-by-Step Instructions
1. Install Fuel Tank or Tap Into Main Tank:
- Mount the supplied tank or connect to the van’s diesel tank if supported.
- Drill an 8 mm hole for the tank pickup if required. Fit the connector, seal with the O-ring, and secure[1].
Mark and Cut Floor Holes:
- Mark where air intake, exhaust, and fuel line will pass through the floor.
- Use the drill and hole saw for precise cuts; deburr and seal cut edges to prevent rust and fumes[1][2].
Mount the Heater:
- Attach the mounting plate to the van floor or to an insulating box.
- Seal around openings with high-temperature sealant.
- Feed fuel, intake, and exhaust pipes through their respective holes[1][2].
Install Air Intake & Exhaust:
- Fit the intake pipe with its filter away from exhaust and road debris.
- Route the exhaust pipe downwards and outwards—never forward, and avoid proximity to doors or windows. Attach with clamps and seal.
- Secure pipes underneath to avoid vibration[2].
Run Fuel Line:
- Cut rubber and plastic fuel lines to length, keeping them as short and direct as possible. Use all provided clips and a fuel filter[3].
- Connect tank to pump, then pump to heater.
Mount and Wire Fuel Pump:
- Install at a slight angle (~30°) for quieter operation.
- Connect wiring using the supplied loom; route safely away from heat and moving parts[2].
Connect Power and Controller:
- Wire the heater’s positive and negative leads to your (fused) 12V supply.
- Mount the controller in an accessible location, plug in any sensors or remotes[2].
Prime the Fuel System:
- Using the controller, run the pump to fill the line until diesel reaches the heater—follow your model’s manual for specific steps[2].
Test and Inspect:
- Reconnect the battery.
- Run the heater for 20–30 minutes, checking for leaks, noise, and proper heating[1][2].
Common Mistakes
- Placing exhaust near windows or air intakes—risk of fumes inside.
- Poorly sealed floor holes, leading to gas or water ingress.
- Running electrical wires without a fuse.
- Failing to prime the system (causes “no fuel” errors or fails to ignite)[2][3].
Pro Tips
- Use high-temp automotive sealant to thoroughly seal around holes and mounting plate.
- Short, straight fuel lines work best for reliable flow.
- Install a carbon monoxide alarm inside the van as a safety necessity[3].
- Periodically inspect exhaust and connections for leaks.
Time Estimate
- 4–8 hours: Experienced DIYers may complete an install in 4–5 hours; beginners should allow a full day for careful, safe work[1][2].