## Lithium Battery

The Overkill Solar Lithium Battery (and accompanying BMS) is widely regarded as an excellent component for campervan and RV power systems, especially for DIY and off-grid applications.

What Makes Overkill Solar Ideal for Campervans

• Optimized for Off-Grid & Mobile Use: Purpose-built for RVs, vans, and marine installations, these batteries handle road vibrations, temperature fluctuations, and irregular charging[1][2][3].
• Robust Safety Features: Integrated Battery Management System (BMS) includes low-temperature charging cut-off, cell balancing, and over/under-voltage protection[1][2][3].
• DIY Friendly: Widely compatible with LiFePO4 cells; Overkill Solar provides detailed manuals, wiring diagrams, and top-notch technical support[1][4].

Key Features and Benefits

• 100A Continuous Charge/Discharge: Supports high-demand devices such as inverters, induction cooktops, and AC units, with strong surge capacity[1][2][3].
• Bluetooth Connectivity: Monitor battery health in real time via Android/iOS apps—track voltage, current, state of charge, and cell balance[1][2][3][5].
• Programmable Settings: Users can tailor low-temperature thresholds, cell balancing behaviors, and alarms for custom scenarios[1][2][5].
• Upgradeable Cabling: Optional 8 AWG wires with crimped copper lugs ensure robust, low-resistance connections for higher current safety[1][3][4].
• Quality Warranty & Support: Strong post-purchase technical support and warranty coverage, essential for reliability on the road[1][2][3].

What to Look For When Buying

• Amperage Rating: Verify your battery will support your intended load; 100A is suitable for most camper applications, but larger setups may require more[1][6].
• BMS Compatibility: Ensure the BMS matches your battery configuration (e.g., 4s 12V, 8s 24V, or 16s 48V for cell count and voltage)[1][3][5].
• Cable Length and Gauge: Choose cabling (e.g., 12" or 24" 8 AWG) according to the install location and current requirements[3][4].
• Enclosure Options: For mobile setups, select durable enclosures (steel or quality plywood) to protect against movement/vibration[4].

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Incorrect Wiring or Cell Balancing: Always top-balance cells before assembling; improper setup may cause cell imbalances or damage[4].
• Overloading the System: Exceeding BMS current or voltage specs can trigger protection shutdowns or even permanent damage[6].
• Ignoring Temperature Cutoffs: Attempting to charge below 0°C (or BMS-designated cutoff) risks reduced performance or cell damage[1][2].
• Inadequate Wire Sizing: Insufficient or poor-quality wiring can lead to voltage drops, heat buildup, and safety hazards[4].

Best Use Cases

• Weekend Warriors: Overkill Solar’s programmable, app-monitored system is ideal for short, off-grid trips—easy to use and maintain[1][2][3].
• Full-Time Living: The robust BMS, real-time monitoring, and heavy-duty build quality support permanent, high-usage setups in full-time vans or RVs[1][2][3][5].
• Custom DIY Builds: Open programmability and flexible wiring options make it favored by advanced DIYers building bespoke energy systems[1][4].

Budget Considerations & Value Analysis

• Cost vs. DIY Potential: While Overkill Solar systems may cost more upfront than generic BMS/controllers, they deliver enhanced safety, customization, and longevity, reducing future maintenance costs[1][2][3].
• Upgrade Value: Spending a bit more for premium cabling, enclosure, and support ensures resilience and performance, protecting both your investment and your safety[3][4].
• Long-Term Reliability: Superior cell balancing and protection features extend battery lifespan, giving better value over years of use[1][2][3][7].

Summary: The Overkill Solar Lithium Battery and BMS system combine advanced safety, real-time app monitoring, DIY flexibility, and strong support—making them an ideal choice for both casual and full-time campervan/RV power systems. Prioritize correct sizing, wiring, and pre-purchase options to maximize system longevity and safety.

Lithium batteries have become the gold standard for RV and campervan electrical systems, offering superior performance compared to traditional alternatives. Here's how they stack up against other battery technologies commonly used in van life.

Alternative Battery Options

AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) Batteries
AGM batteries represent the most common alternative to lithium for RV applications. They use a sealed lead-acid design with glass mat separators that absorb the electrolyte. AGM batteries are maintenance-free and more affordable upfront, with prices typically ranging from $200-400 for a 100Ah unit compared to $800-1000 for equivalent lithium batteries[1][3]. However, they only offer 50% usable capacity (depth of discharge) versus 80-90% for lithium, meaning a 100Ah AGM provides just 50Ah of usable power[3]. They're also significantly heavier due to lead-acid content and have shorter lifespans of 300-500 cycles compared to 2000-5000+ cycles for lithium[1].

Flooded Lead-Acid Batteries
Traditional flooded batteries are the most budget-friendly option at $100-250 for 100Ah capacity, but they require regular maintenance including water refills and ventilation for hydrogen gas. They share similar depth of discharge limitations as AGM (around 50%) and have comparable cycle life. These are best suited for occasional RVers on tight budgets who don't mind maintenance requirements[1].

LiFePO4 Brands Comparison

| Feature | Battle Born | LiTime | AGM |
|---------|-------------|--------|-----|
| Price (100Ah) | $900-1000 | $300-500 | $200-400 |
| Usable Capacity | 80-90% | 80-90% | 50% |
| Cycle Life | 3000-5000 | 4000+ | 300-500 |
| Weight (100Ah) | ~31 lbs | ~23 lbs | ~60 lbs |

LiTime 12V 100Ah Lithium Battery
LiTime offers budget-friendly lithium options with self-heating capabilities for cold weather camping. Their 100Ah model weighs just 22.7 lbs and provides over 4000 cycles, making it an excellent value alternative to premium brands like Battle Born[4].

When to Choose Each Option

Choose lithium batteries if you're a full-time van lifer or frequent off-gridder who needs maximum usable capacity, faster charging, and longer lifespan. The higher upfront cost ($800-1000) pays off through 10+ years of reliable service[1][2].

Select AGM batteries for weekend warriors or seasonal RVers who use their van only a few months annually. The lower initial investment makes sense when you won't cycle the batteries frequently enough to justify lithium's premium price[3].

Opt for flooded lead-acid only if budget is the absolute priority and you're comfortable with regular maintenance. This works best for stationary or rarely-moved setups where weight isn't a concern[1].

Tools Required

• Screwdrivers (flathead, Phillips)
• Ratchet/Socket set (for terminal bolts)
• Wire cutters/strippers
• Heat-shrink terminals
• Torque wrench (set for 12nm max)
• Electrical tape
• Fuses/holders (100A recommended)
• Voltmeter/multimeter

Prerequisites

• Disconnect RV/campervan from shore power and solar panels[4].
• Remove old battery and clean bay/box; ensure all dirt and corrosion are eliminated[1].
• Confirm your wiring and inverter/charger are compatible with lithium batteries, and upgrade if necessary[4].
• Check if the lithium battery includes a Battery Management System (BMS)[4].
• Ensure compartment meets safety standards: batteries must be outside or vapor-sealed/vented from the living area, and not near gas/diesel lines[2].

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Make sure all power sources (shore power, solar) are fully disconnected[4].
2. Confirm your lithium battery fits securely in the compartment or an approved external box[2].
3. If old battery is present, remove it and ensure connections are clean[1].
4. Secure clamps or strapping to immobilize the lithium battery in its location[1].
5. Attach positive battery terminal first, then negative last[1].
   - Use provided bolts (not reused old bolts)[1].
   - Tighten bolts to max 12nm; check terminals are immobile by hand[1].
6. Route cables so they are short and minimize bends to reduce resistance and prevent voltage drop[5].
7. Install a fuse (ideally within 7 inches of battery terminal) on the main positive cable—100A is common for 100Ah battery[3][9].
8. If adding chargers, inverters, or other gear, wire according to manufacturer guidelines and ground all DC components to a dedicated chassis point[3].
9. Once all connections are complete, double-check polarity and tighten all terminals.
10. Switch on devices, test voltage with a voltmeter, and inspect for correct function. If there’s no power, check related fuses[1][4].
11. Fully charge the battery before first use[1].

Common Mistakes

• Failing to disconnect all power sources before installation (risk of shock/fire)[4].
• Not securing battery—must not move freely[1].
• Using improper gauge wire or old/incorrect bolts for connections[1][9].
• Placing battery inside living area without vapor-sealed and vented box[2].
• Skipping fuse installation close to battery[3][9].

Pro Tips

• Always use heat-shrink terminals for superior vibration resistance and safety[9].
• Keep cable runs as short as possible to minimize voltage drop[5].
• Separate AC and DC ground points on chassis for safety[3].
• Consult latest local/national standards for lithium battery installations[2].

Time Estimate

• Typical installation takes 2-4 hours, depending on complexity and any required wiring upgrades.